Q: Carl, lets wrap up this interview with falling the tree. Felling is probably the most dangerous operation you can perform when using a saw. What is the best way a beginner can learn to cut down a tree.
Carl Smith: OK. Try to learn with someone who is more experienced than you. This apprenticeship will give you information that the more experienced feller has had to learn over many years. It will give you a tremendous head start.
Don't act like you know it all and be open to suggestions. Most fellers will enjoy training a novice if the beginner enters the training with an open mind. Even the most experienced cutter can't make a claim that he knows it all. Every tree is different and anything can happen - and usually does.
Always begin any chainsaw operation with the "size up" sequence. Look carefully at what is around you and have a clear picture as to what you intend to do. Regardless of the size of the tree, always keep asking yourself before every cut, "what will happen if..."
Q: I think we are getting the message that size up is extremely important. What do you do when you go to your first tree of the day?
Carl Smith: I do the size up in a certain sequence. I never leave out any of the following process.
I observe the terrain for slope and possible obstructions and walk the area that the tree will fall to ensure that no surprises will be found. The weather, wind direction, and type (gusty, squirrelly, steady, or calm) can be your worst enemy or your best friend.
I then look up at the tree from several directions to determine lean, broken, or lodged materials within the tree. Rot, splits - any other deformities may affect the way the tree will fall. On larger trees, walk to the trunk of the tree and look directly up. Rain, ice and snow all add weight to the branches and trunk of a tree. This will affect the center of gravity of a tree being cut and must be allowed for.
On larger trees, use your hatchet or ax to thump or "sound" the butt of the tree. If need be, remove the bark. Sound all around the tree's base to detect hollow or unsound portions of the tree. This will determine how you will cut the tree and where it will want to go when cut at stump level. These unsupported portions in the butt of a tree can change the way a tree will react when sawn.
Plan primary and secondary escape routes. Check for anything that may be hanging in the tree. Look for snags, leaning, or hung up trees within a two tree length area around the tree you wish to cut. These may fall at the same time your sawn tree does and you want to be aware of secondary actions. Also check for anything that may change the direction of the tree fall such as vines, other trees branches, or other trees.
Look for people and make sure that no one is within two and one half tree lengths of the tree that you are cutting. That goes for animals, buildings, power lines, and anything that might be hit by your falling tree. You must then determine what will happen as the tree goes down and after it hits the ground. You must also anticipate what might happen within the immediate area surrounding your work area. Flying debris has injured and killed chain saw operators and nearby personnel.
Q: I want to talk a little about the backcut in a minute. But let's cut the tree now. How do you actually cut a standing tree.
Carl Smith: You should begin by falling the tree where the wind and lean dictate. You should begin by standing on the uphill side of the tree, 90 degrees from where you feel it will fall. DO NOT work under the leaning or heavy side of the tree. The heavy side is where the branches are the heaviest or where there may be some natural curving or leaning of the trunk. This will cause the center of gravity to be shifted to that side.
Using the bottom of the bar, cut the selected face on the side of the tree where you think it will fall. There are four different faces that can be used - the Western Standard Face, the Open Face, the Humboldt Face and the Step-Cut Face. The Western Standard and Open are the ones to begin with. The Humboldt and Step Cut are best left to the Professionals. Let me explain the first two.
Western Standard Face is two cuts. The first is a horizontal cut that cuts into 1/3 the diameter of the tree. The second cut is made above the first. You want to have an approximate 45-60 degree angle formed by the completion of these two cuts. These two cuts must meet evenly, leaving no "dutchman" or separation of cuts. If a dutchman has been made re-cut to get rid of it.
The Open Face also requires two cuts but there is no horizontal cut. Make your bottom cut at an upwards angle into 1/3 the diameter of the tree. The uppermost cut must be made so that a 80-90 degree angle is made when the two cuts meet. Again, do not leave a dutchman.
The next step is to check the direction that the face has been cut. This will more than likely determine the direction the tree will fall.
