"A chain saw is the most dangerous hand tool that can be purchased on the open market. It requires no license and no training to own or operate. Approximately 40,000 injuries and deaths were reported last year in the United States...and most could have been prevented."
Carl Smith in a statement from his basic chain saw course
Carl Smith is a fifth generation logger who received a forest technician degree from Green River. Carl started his career with The Weyerhaueser Company. Smith eventually went to work for the United States Forest Service where he trained employees of the National Park Service and Bureau of Indian Affairs.
Smith has a personal business that trains chain saw operators for timber companies and is also in the process of writing a book on this subject as well as making a video .
Contact Carl Smith at backcut6@msn.com
Q: Carl, lets continue. You are extremely concerned about safety. Obviously there is a routine you go through as you are preparing to cut your first tree of the day. Can you explain?
Carl Smith: I'll be glad to Steve. I never start a job alone. You can get into big trouble very quickly. Be aware of your surroundings - weather conditions, terrain, wildlife, buildings, vehicles, power lines, livestock, and other people.
It is important that you be physically and mentally prepared. You need to be up to doing the job on that particular day. Knowing your limitations and that something is beyond your capabilities is a must. If you don't think you can do it, don't do it.
Obviously you need the proper chain saw and bar length for the job and have the basic protective equipment and additional tools. I have mentioned this before.
Q: Carl, many people get in a hurry and let gravity crank the chainsaw. I am guilty and see the "professionals" doing it all the time. It looks cool but is it dangerous?
Carl Smith: An "air-drop" is extremely dangerous. Let me explain the preferred methods of starting a chainsaw.
One is ground starting . This method works all right if you have a small saw and small feet. Lay the saw flat on the ground, lock the chain brake, and turn the ignition switch on. Close the choke all the way and ensure the bar's tip and the chain are completely off of the ground and not touching anything.
Place one foot inside the pistol grip, wrap one hand around the top of the handle bar, with the thumb wrapped completely around it. Pull the starter rope with the other hand. Some people hold the saw down with their knee on top of the power head but I don't recommend this as you can slip off.
Another is groin starting . This method is also for small saws and those who are of stout heart. With the chain break engaged, turn the ignition on and close the choke all the way. Insert the pistol grip in between and about the mid-point of your thighs and clamped tightly. Grip the handle bar tightly with one hand, with the thumb wrapped completely around it. Pull the starter rope with the other hand. If you decide to use this method, I hope your saw starts easily and quickly. Do not try this with a high compression chain saw. You might hurt yourself.
I prefer professional starting . Most professional operators use this method. It is also called the "sling start". Engage the chain brake and turn the ignition switch on. Close the choke all of the way and rest the bar on a log or anything non-abrasive (not on rocks, dirt or the tail gate of your pickup). With one hand on the pistol grip and pushing the power head down quickly, pull the starter rope with the other hand.
The first time the engine tries to start, open the choke all of the way. Keep pulling on the start rope until the engine starts. For a well tuned saw, 3 pulls of the starting rope should be enough. When your chain saw becomes old and worn out, it will probably take more than 3 pulls to get it going. Some high compression chain saws still have a compression release built into them. It is there for a reason and should be used when starting the saw. Turn it off after the saw is running.
