From Steve Nix,
Your Guide to Forestry.
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If this side bind is present, your bucking cut procedure must be modified in order to release the bind before proceeding. Side bind is usually due to the fact that the downed tree is pressed up tightly against another object - another tree, a stump or a rock. When making your release cut, anticipate what both sections will do. If you feel that you cannot safely release the bind, use a piece of equipment to move the tree. Your life is more important than a piece of wood.

The following steps are necessary for bucking. You need to "size-up" correctly. Assume the correct stance, stand on the uphill side of the tree, place both hands correctly on the chain saw, and determine tree diameter vs. bar length relationship. If bar is shorter than diameter of tree, make an "off-side bucking" cut before starting. This is a vertical "bucking" cut on the opposite side of the tree from where you are standing. This will allow the bar of your saw to cut completely through the tree when the finish "bucking" cuts are made.

You need to determine type of bind present and where your "bucking" cuts will be made. Combinations of these types of bind are common. This must be kept in mind at all times.

Q: Limbing has always been easier than bucking for me. I seem to have a sixth sense for it. Still, give us some information on taking limbs off trees.

Carl Smith: "Size-up" again is a term that must be applied before making any cut with a chain saw - and that includes limbing. You must look at what might happen in reaction to your cutting. Observe the limb to be cut. Which way is it leaning? Is it under pressure? Where is the center of gravity? Which limb should be cut first and in what order, from there on? What will it do after it has been cut? Do you have the correct stance? Where are your feet and legs in relation to the position of the bar and chain? What will happen to the bar and chain after the material has been cut? All of these questions must be answered before a cut is started.

Normally, when limbing a downed or a standing tree, you will start at the butt of the tree, with the bar and chain next to the trunk. Start cutting the limb from top to bottom , using gravity as a tool. If the limb is extremely long, you may elect to cut it at the half way point of the branches length. If it is extremely large in diameter or heavy, a small cut on the bottom of the limb will help keep it from splitting when the top cut is made. Care must be taken as this method can cause the bar/chain to become pinched if the bottom cut is made too deeply.

If a limb is under pressure (touching the ground or another object), extreme care must be taken when any cuts are made. Usually, reversing the above procedure is the accepted method. Depending on how you place your cuts, the bar/chain can become pinched, the released limb can spring back at you. Kickback can occur forcing the bar/chain back towards you.

Some people prefer to limb one side of the downed tree first and then the other. If you are walking down the top of the tree, while limbing, never cross your feet . Always keep the correct stance, as balance is most important. Falling off of a downed tree while limbing with a running chain saw can cause a condition called "stitches at the hospital".

Steve Nix: Thanks Carl for more great information. We will wind this thing up next week when we talk about cutting down a standing tree.

Carl and I have discussed how hard it is describing the process and hazards of felling , limbing, and bucking a tree. There is a lot of technique and art to felling and preparing logs that has to be done many times to get the true feel. Please feel free to contact Carl by e-mail at backcut@msn.com if you have questions.

Saw Safety - Part III