Remember that there is no one correct way to begin and set up this project. You might want to modify your work space to fit your needs and equipment. I have a long work bench that offered all the working area I needed and allowed some clamping room for stability of stick/ruler/scribing.
Scribing is the key to a stick's accuracy. All I mean by "scribing" is marking an accurately calculated distance point from the left (or "0") end of the blank stick to all calculated diameter or height points proceeding to the right. It is important to mark all points in sequence without removing the yardstick (as shown).
You can see that I also include a metal yardstick plus my old, store-bought cruiser stick to aid in correctly marking and scribing a blank strip of white pine (30 inches long, one inch wide and .7 inch thick). That old (and tree paint splattered) Biltmore stick was used to recheck my calculations but is not necessary for completing the project. It was only used as another confirmation that my calculations were correct. All my scribing was based on calculated formula data and not by using that old and beat-up stick as a template.
The beauty of a timber scaling stick is there are two dimensions of a tree you can scale using a four-sided stick. You will be using both of the stick's wide sides to scribe a tree diameter scale and a tree height scale. This very precise scribing is easier done if you can clamp and stabilize the stick and the ruler.
One caution: I have verified all my point calculations using a Suunto clinometer and Lufkin Artisan diameter tape on a real tree. Bad news is, I have found several "building a Biltmore stick" sites who have inaccurate calculations. I also include two sources that I will use to enhance my report: